Build time today 5.0 hours - Total build time 56.5 hours.
Man time today 5.0 hours - Total man time 69.5 hours.
Had to stop to do some DIY for my Mon and Dad, life needs to go on.
It is starting to look more like a car now.
I should be starting on the fuel system components next, inertia switch, tank, pump etc. It won't be long before the engine goes in. For that I need to hire/borrow and engine hoist, hopefully it should go in over the Christmas holiday.
Started by getting all the wiring back in place. I have not attached with cable ties yet as I am sure I will need to adjust, especially at the front of the car as there is still more loom to be attached. For the moment I have just taped the wires in place.
 |
| upright supported and wishbone and shoke held out of way ready for drive shaft to be installed |
Next on to fitting the drive shafts.
To make it easier to access I removed the top upright mountings and allowed the upright to rest on a trestle. I held the shock and top wishbone out of the way with a piece of string.
Getting the drive shaft lined up and the bolts in is a little fiddly, I had a couple in at each end when I remembered they needed to be lock tighted so had to take some of the bolts back out. Once all were in place and loosely tightened I torqued them all up to the correct setting. I have purchased a set of Allen keys with a 1/2" adapter so that I can now torque up Allen key bolts.
To get at each bolt I had to turn the drive shaft using a metal poll placed between the wheel bolts.
Once both drive shafts were installed I reattached the upright and then torqued all the nuts and bolts up to about 15lb/foot, they will need to be correctly set once the car its wheels and correctly set-up.
With the uprights now in place I attached the rear brakes and did some more work on the hand brake. there is not too much in the guide on attaching and adjusting the hand brake. There is no mention of what to attach the hand brake cable to the rear brakes with, my assumption is to use a cotter pin and split pin but can't find any so am not sure. ( since confirmed with factory to use not and bolt).
Getting the drive shaft lined up and the bolts in is a little fiddly, I had a couple in at each end when I remembered they needed to be lock tighted so had to take some of the bolts back out. Once all were in place and loosely tightened I torqued them all up to the correct setting. I have purchased a set of Allen keys with a 1/2" adapter so that I can now torque up Allen key bolts.
To get at each bolt I had to turn the drive shaft using a metal poll placed between the wheel bolts.
Once both drive shafts were installed I reattached the upright and then torqued all the nuts and bolts up to about 15lb/foot, they will need to be correctly set once the car its wheels and correctly set-up.
With the uprights now in place I attached the rear brakes and did some more work on the hand brake. there is not too much in the guide on attaching and adjusting the hand brake. There is no mention of what to attach the hand brake cable to the rear brakes with, my assumption is to use a cotter pin and split pin but can't find any so am not sure. ( since confirmed with factory to use not and bolt).
 |
| Right Drive Shaft in place |
 |
| Left Drive Shaft in place |
 |
| Its starting to look more like a car |
Had to stop to do some DIY for my Mon and Dad, life needs to go on.
It is starting to look more like a car now.
I should be starting on the fuel system components next, inertia switch, tank, pump etc. It won't be long before the engine goes in. For that I need to hire/borrow and engine hoist, hopefully it should go in over the Christmas holiday.
No comments:
Post a Comment