Build Day 81-83

Build time today 7.0 hours - Total build time 248.0 hours.

Man time today 7.0 hours - Total man time 277.0 hours.

Its back from Westfield, they actually drove it back on trade plates. Said that it was well built. I have a list of minor rectification and pre-IVA tasks to complete. Nothing major. 

Some wiring needed to be tidied up

• Tidy up wiring 
• in the engine bay, specifically the air temp sensor and fuel injection related wiring
• by the diff needs more securing
• wiring to rear lights and number plate
• under the dash
• alter the route of the flexible brake lines at the front
• fit rubber edging to CPU panel
• fit rubber edging to cycle wings
• move exhaust cover so that it covers the mounting clamp
• fit IVA nut covers around front suspension and RAC Roll bar.
• fit IVA bonnet catch covers
• fit IVA side screen covers
• look at slight brake fluid leak around master cylinder
• look at slight petrol leak around fuel tank outlet
• check to see if the plates I have used to cover the Roll Bar mounts will comply with IVA test.

Nothing major and if the guide was better things that may well have been done.

moving the exhaust cover was quick and easy, just loosened the securing straps and moved it back until it covered the mount.

To adjust the brake pipes I loosened the securing nut and twisted until they no longer touched any body work or suspension components. I am still not happy though as when steering is applied they do then touch body work or suspension components. I need to seek further clarification and wondered if it was OK to cover the flexible pipe and fasten to the upper wishbone.

With the engine bay wiring, I removed the air filter tube from the throttle body and rerouted and re-secured the wires. I used spiral wrap on the injection wires to keep them together. Again had I known more about how wires need to be routed I would probably have routed a number of wires differently.

To get at the rear wires I jacked the rear up and placed on axle stands as high as possible. To even it out I also lifted the front on to stands as the front wheels would need to come off to look at the cycle wing edging.

With the bodywork and wires in place I could see where they needed to be tidied and secured.  With the wires around the diff I spiral wrapped them as best as I could and secured with a cable tie. At this point there was no way of attaching a cable tie securing point. I did add some additional riveted securing points where I could get access with a drill and riveter, underside of rear uprights, and a point to add an additional securing point for the tank earth.  Something I already knew I needed to look at again, it looks a lot neater now with the wires held securely in place, hopefully the IVA inspector will be satisfied.

While under the rear I had a look at the fuel leak. Indeed there was a small leak, I was told that I would probably just need to relocate the jubilee clip slightly, so I loosened it and move it as recommended, while doing it there was a bigger leak and even when complete it did not rectify the situation. Only thing to do was to drain the system and look to re-assemble. I got a petrol can and some empty containers then clamped the pipe.  To drain I disconnected the pipe from the fuel pump to allow me to direct the flow better. Once the tank was drained I took the pipe off completely checked where the clips needed to be to make sure they gripped correctly and reassembled and added some fuel. Still a slight leek, so it is a matter of keep tightening a little at a time until it stops, well I hope that is the case because I am still lightening what feel to be tight fittings already.

Next to look at he leak from the brake master cylinder area, on first inspection it looks there is a very slight leak from the brake pressure sensor, so a tweak with a spanner to tighten it up, checked again later and it feels like there is still a slight leek, trouble is it is not easy to get at all the bits and the leak is only very slight, I  carefully clean the area as best as I can so I can come back later. When I rechecked it felt like it was coming from one of the master cylinder outlets. Another tweak and  all now seems to be OK.

On to the cycle wing edging, I had been advised to use electrical tape to secure the inner edge of the edging as it can easily come off. so this is what I have done. Once the edging was in place I used black electrical tape to secure the inner edge, I have ordered some black duct tape to replace the electrical tape as it is not holding. the real problem areas are around the lower read edges. Hopefully some better tape will do the job.


With the cycle wings done there was just enough of the edging for the CPU panel. Simply dropped the CPU panel down and applied some electrical tape. (I suspect I will need to replace the tape though).

Next on to the nut covers, quick look through the pack and I can see I have different sorts. I knew I had some supplied with the RAC Roll Bar so first to pick these back out. They fit nice and tight. Now on to the suspension. Not so straight forward with these, I suspect they don't all need to be covered as most are actually difficult to get out, decided to cover all those that I could within reason. Some did not fit very well, with these I wrapped a little tape around the nut to increase the diameter a little and applied a little silicon to the end to help secure in place. I'll take the spares with me when I have the test.

Now for the side screen covers, these were really tricky as they are all either a tight fit or an extremely tight fit. If you push them on they just pop off again. I tried a couple of different solutions, first electrical tape, sort of worked for the first, but the second which was tighter would not hold it. I then tried to use an m5 screw as this fitted in the hole ok, but eventually used small cable ties, not sure though.

The bonnet catch covers I will leave until I no longer want or need to open the bonnet.

Now on to the dash, I had been given some advice on getting the wheel off. Loosen the nut but don't fully remove, then bang on either side of the wheel and pull on either side of the wheel and it will come loose. After a while it worked. With the wheel off I could unscrew the dash and re-arrange the wires, using cable ties to secure loose wires into groups and making sure that all the wires followed the main loom.  With the dash off I also took the opportunity to fit a power take off point, splicing into the switched live and earth feeds for the immobilizer circuit. I should have taken time to create the mounting before fitting the carpet because getting it off with the seats fitted is not possible and it makes fitting rivet nuts quite tricky. I did manage it though. I won't wont have to rely on my Sat Nav battery now when I go for the IVA test. If I go to Derby the Sat Nav will be needed to aid in getting there but for either destination it will be usful to asses the speedo accuracy.

I have looked at the regulations again and the Roll bar cover plates and I am unsure, I may just remove them. Depending upon how long I have I could look at the supplied ones, or I may come up with another solution.

Before finishing I did a final check on the brake leek, not sure, think its now ok, but while looking noticed a couple of small puddles under the other side of the car. I had run the engine for a little and I found I had a small coolant leak. So tightened up the jubilee clips a little more.